Young & Hungry
Do you dream of becoming a culinary legend or celebrity chef?
photo by Luke Earls
Carrie McCully, long-time culinary recruiter and host of Chef Hunter, a new series debuting in November on the Food Network, says a reality check is in order. She laments the fact that many young chefs are going into the business because they want to become famous. While that may be understandable given reality cooking shows have turned ordinary people into media personalities, it’s not a realistic expectation, McCully says. Television success has spawned entertainment empires that include cookbook deals and product endorsements but, she notes, many “hot shots” have enjoyed their fifteen minutes of fame before fading into obscurity. Culinary stars with real staying power possess that undefinable mix of star power and talent, she adds. “These people have so much personality and the stars were aligned and it all came together for them. It’s a one-in- a-million.”
The Chef Hunter show, which premiers Nov. 10 at 10 p.m. ET/PT, is unique in that three chef candidates selected by McCully are whittled down to a pair who compete for a job as an executive chef at a top restaurant. Owners of the restaurant turn over the keys to their establishment to the finalists, who purchase food, create menus, work with existing staff and serve real customers for one night. The candidate’s culinary chops are judged under intense scrutiny by the restaurant’s general manager and McCully. The winner earns a coveted job that may change their future.
But, McCully notes, for every chef who hits it big or nabs the job of their dreams, there are many more wannabees struggling to make a living in a field that demands long hours, evening and weekend shifts, tough working conditions and in the beginning – little compensation. “They are not seeing the big picture,” she says. “They think ‘if only I can get on that show I will have it made.’” Aspiring chefs have to first have a passion for food, not fame, she adds. “You have to want to live in that world 24/7. You’ve got to work hard.” Part of the process is to experience the heat of a real kitchen, being “slammed” by orders and dealing with unexpected problems, she says. Those who want to succeed in the culinary industry have to love cooking and creating dishes over a desire for fame. “There are very few of us who end up with a show on the Food Network.”
STIRRING THE POT
Although formal education is not necessary to succeed in the business, many turn to culinary schools to learn classic techniques. For locals with culinary aspirations, Daytona State College, Bethune-Cookman University and Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Orlando all offer culinary or hospitality programs which vary widely in cost and curriculum.
Daytona State College Mori Hosseini School of Hospitality Management offers a certificate in culinary operations in baking and pastry at a cost of $3,500. Associate Degree programs available in culinary management and hospitality management run $7,000. Dean Costa Magoulas says DSC’s culinary programs offer tremendous value by providing state of the art facilities and instructors who have a Master’s Degree and industry experience, at a far lower cost than many other schools. In addition, DSC’s associate degree programs have the advantage of offering entry to a Bachelor of Applied Science in Supervision and Management, something Magoulas strongly recommends. This will earn a degree that is more transferable to other industries if the student wants to broaden their job search in the future, he says. “That’s pretty hard to beat. It’s really a bargain.”
Bethune-Cookman University offers a Bachelor Degree in Hospitality Management that runs $55,000. Although the four-year degree is more business and management oriented, culinary classes are part of the program, says Graham Bowcher, Department Chair for the Hospitality Management Program. “Anyone going into hospitality management needs to know their way around a kitchen,” he says. He also emphasizes the importance of students earning a four-year degree. Although getting an entry level job can be accomplished with a certificate or associate degree, the value of a Bachelor Degree cannot be overlooked. Corporate recruiters that visit his campus are looking for a strong GPA, industry experience and evidence of leadership, he says. The value of a degree may be fully realized two to three years down the line when the employee is up for promotion. It’s what will differentiate them, he added.
At Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts Orlando, students can earn a one-year diploma in culinary arts or baking and pastry arts for $20,000, says Bill Mather, executive chef. Students can go on to complete an online associate or bachelor’s degree if desired. Mather said the diploma program teaches classical French cooking with modern culinary techniques, and is designed for students not interested in the general education component. “We emphasize method and technique,” he says. “We are highly student focused and get to know our students and what they are interested in.”
LOANS, LEGISLATION & LITIGATION
The culinary shine may be wearing off, however, for students who are unable to find jobs that pay enough to service their student loan debt after graduation. Culinary schools can be expensive and some students find themselves saddled with debt as they enter the workforce competing for entry level jobs that pay little more than minimum wage. In addition, according to the United States Government Accountability Office, students from for-profit (or proprietary) schools have a higher student loan default rate than students from other schools. Although the study “did not imply widespread problems at all proprietary schools” higher default rates were linked to “inadequate monitoring of basic skills tests” which allowed unqualified students to gain access to federal student aid, leading to a greater risk of dropping out and default.
In June, the Obama administration released new regulations requiring career college programs to better prepare students for “gainful employment” or risk losing access to Federal student aid. Programs must meet a criterion that evaluates the number of student loan defaults and the amount of student loans in relationship to total earnings and/or discretionary income upon graduation. Schools must be careful not to misrepresent the value of their programs and job prospects after graduation.
Some culinary schools are getting that message the hard way – through litigation. California attorney Ray Gallo has represented hundreds of culinary students in individual suits, and thousands of students in class actions, against two schools owned by Career Education Corporation (CEC) which operates a chain of culinary schools across the nation under the “Le Cordon Bleu” brand, licensed from the famous French school. (CEC is the parent corporation of Le Cordon Bleu in Orlando; however the Orlando campus was not named in the suit.) A settlement is pending in one of the suits.
Gallo says that the schools involved sold their programs through aggressive marketing campaigns that created the impression that students would be financially and professionally better off after attending. Students were misled about loan payments and job opportunities, he adds. “Students end up with a load of debt and, in many or most cases, little chance of paying it off.” Gallo also maintains that some institutions “dumbed down” admissions, as well as the curriculum and testing, allowing students to attend, pay and graduate without marketable skills. “They are selling you on the idea that it makes economic sense to attend culinary school, but there is strong evidence to the contrary.” People’s perception of a culinary career differs from the reality, he notes. “It’s a low wage industry, where only a select few earn high pay.” His advice to students is to skip culinary school, but if they are determined to attend, to talk to employers about jobs that will be available to them and to carefully consider the debt load and cost of debt service before enrolling in any career training program.
A spokesperson from Le Cordon Bleu defended their practices saying, “Since these allegations were made, we have carefully reviewed and modified our policies and practices for reporting job placement
rates, admissions and advertising. While we believe our previous practices were legal, we have been very conservative in modifying our policies and procedures to ensure that students understand that we are not promising any specific job outcomes or salaries – something always on our disclosure forms – and that they are responsible for evaluating their local job markets to determine if this is a career path they want to pursue.”
COOKING UP A JOB
California’s legal climate notwithstanding, local school representatives tout the advantages of training and education in obtaining a solid foundation for a career in culinary and hospitality. All three emphasize that they present a realistic view of job prospects to students through teaching, internships and campus visits by industry recruiters.
Chef Henry Salgado, owner of the Spanish River Grill in New Smyrna Beach with his wife, Michele, has parlayed his love of cooking into a successful career. Culinary school provided him with a solid foundation and instilled a sense of professionalism that has served him well, he says. Culinary skills are very portable, he adds, noting that a talented chef can work anywhere in the country. “I traveled my way across the country, and cooked my way across. It can be a very rewarding career.”
So, what can graduates expect in the current job market? Be prepared to work your way up from an entry level position in today’s market, they say. While local experts are optimistic about the long term outlook for a culinary or hospitality career, the economic recession has impacted the industry, which is heavily dependent on discretionary income. “The local job market is soft,” Chef Mather says.
Bob Davis, CEO and president of the Hotel & Lodging Association of Volusia County says there is always room for excellent candidates willing to work their way up. “We need hospitality students to work as career technicians,” he says. Entry level positions such as front office sales and reservations will lead to mid-level and upper-level management positions.
Bowcher says students must be prepared to put in the time to advance. “No students, these days, are expecting to walk into a management position straight away,” he says. “If you are good you will be promoted.” BCU students work in internships during the academic program to give them a feel for real-world working conditions.
DSC’s Magoulas concurs. Although he’s seen students whose sole goal is to land a television gig, his staff emphasizes the realities of the workplace and the hard work required. “You need to know if you have the passion in your heart for the industry.” he says. “You have to be dedicated. When everybody else is on vacation or holiday, we are working.”
Meanwhile, after 15 years in the industry, including working with luminaries such as Alain Ducasse, Terrance Brennan and Martha Stewart, Chef Hunter host McCully advises aspiring culinary stars to draw inspiration from the world of television, but at the end of the day, they must love what they do for its own rewards. “Only do it if you are passionate,” she says, “You have to have a passion.”
